Material/Production Notes -

Following are some notes of interest regarding japan finishes,  thread colors and wax compounds used to prepare threads.  If you have any different or unusual formulations, please feel free to share with everyone here - please include any bibliographical info too!

Japan Varnish

"Japan varnish is generally purchased from the paint-sellers. It is made by boiling over a slow charcoal fire, for five hours, all the ingredients, except the turpentine and a small portion of the oil ; the latter is added as required, to check the ebullition and allay the froth which rises to the surface. It must be continually stirred with a wooden spatula, and great care is necessary to prevent it from taking fire.

The turpentine is added after the varnish is nearly cool, and it is stirred well in. The varnish must be put in demijohns, or close cans, and kept tightly corked."

page 175, Ordnance Manual, pub. By J.B. Lippincott & Co. Philadelphia, PA, 1861

"Composition -9 rosin, 6 pitch, 6 beeswax, 1 tallow. To be mixed together and poured into water; then worked with the hands until it becomes soft and pliable."

page 175, Ordnance Manual, pub. By J.B. Lippincott & Co. Philadelphia, PA, 1861

Other Wax Formulas -

"Saddlers Black Wax.-(a) Pitch, 2 lb. ; resin, 2 ½ lb. seal oil, one pennyworth. In winter add 2 lb. of resin instead of 2 ½ lb., and never more than of the oil until the stiffness of the wax has been tested. (b) Pitch, 1 lb. ; resin, 1 lb. ; and linseed oil, one pennyworth.

The exact amount of oil to be used in both of the above recipes depends on the season and the weather. A little lampblack may be well mixed in when the wax is required very black. Always melt the pitch and resin together, and then add the oil. Afterwards pour the mixture into cold water, and knead and pull it until it floats. Try a small piece first,- to ascertain whether there is sufficient oil, and likewise after pulling to see whether it floats.

Brown Wax.--Beeswax, 1 lb. ; pale resin, 3 oz. and white-lead, 3 oz. The wax can be softened or hardened by adding more or less beeswax. Melt the mixture, stirring it, and then pour it into water and pull until it floats."

Saddlery and Harness-Making Paul N. Hasluck, ed.
J.A. Allen and Company, Ltd., London, 1904.

WARNING - these are contemporary "recipes" that include high levels of toxic substances (lead oxides in most cases) that must be avoided.  In all cases, suitable modern substitutes are useable for performing restoration or reproduction work.

Leather Dyes & Finishes -from 1861 Ordnance Manual

The logwood and nutgalls are boiled in the water till the logwood is dissolved. When cold, add the pyrolignate of iron. Stir it well and let it-settle. When clear, decant it free from sediment and keep it well corked.

The pyrolignate of iron made by dissolving iron-filings in pyroligneous acid,-as much as the acid will take up.

The addition of'the logwood is not essential.

A solution of copperas may replace the pyrolignite of iron, but it is not so good.

Varnish for Holsters, Scabbards, &C., (or Patent Leather.)
(For first and second Coats.)

The Ingredients, except the turpentine, are boiled together in an iron kettle eight hours, when the mixture will assume a brilliant black color.. When the varnish is nearly cool, stir in the turpentine. The kettle in which the varnish is made should be of a capacity to hold double the quantity of varnish to be boiled.

(For the third or finishing coat.- COPAL VARNISH)

This varnish is made in a copper vessel, smallest at the top, in the form of a still.

Put the copal in the vessel, set it on a charcoal fire for one hour, in which time it will melt, and all the watery particles will evaporate. Add the oil while the copal is warm. but not boiling hot. When nearly cool, add the turpentine, which will give it a proper consistency for use.

For 5 lbs. Copal and the proper proportions of oil and turpentine, the vessel should hold 6 gallons.