Cavalry Bridle.

(Plate 1.)

This article of equipment is a combination of a curb bridle, bridoon bridle, and halter, and is intended to serve as a bridle both in garrison and in the field. In the latter instance it is also used as a halter. It is not intended to be used as a stable halter in garrison, but should be kept by the trooper to whom issued on the peg with the rest of his equipment. A stable halter is provided for stable and corral use in garrison, and the bridle can thus always be kept presentable.

The bridle consists of the following essential parts:

A cheek piece, which is a plain strap of 9 1/2 to 10 1/2 ounce bridle leather 1 inch wide and 78 inches long. This strap passes twice over the head of the horse, thus forming a long loop on each side of the head. At the bottom point of each of these loops the noseband is suspended from the cheek piece by means of the noseband slides. The cheek piece is adjusted to length by means of a buckle and six holes on the near side of the bridle just below the brow band.

A brow band, of medium harness leather 18 inches long and 1 3/8 inches wide in the middle and tapering to 7/8 inch wide at each end, where loops 2 1/4 inches long are stitched to encircle the cheek piece, bridoon crown piece, and throat latch on each side of the head. Onto these loops are slipped 1 inch brass-wire loops which separate the cheek piece from the throat latch and bricloon crown piece.

The throat latch, a plain strap of medium harness leather 1 inch wide and 43 5/8 inches long, passes up through the loops in the brow band in rear of the cheek piece and directly over the bridoon crown piece and down under the throat of the horse, passing through the upper loop in the throat strap, and ending in a common buckle on the near side, where six holes are punched for adjustment.

A nose band, of medium harness leather 41 inches long and 1 1/8 inches wide, made into an endless band by a 5 1/2-inch stitched lap. This band is suspended from the cheek piece on each side by passing through the noseband slide, and in the rear it passes twice through the 2 3/16-inch small iron ring in the lower end of the throat strap and once through the similar ring for attaching the halter tie rope.

A throat strap, of medium harness leather 7/8 inch wide, about 18 inches long, folded upon itself twice so as to form a billet 6 inches long of three thicknesses sewed together, with 1-inch loop for the throat latch at its upper end and a 2 3/16-inch small iron ring at its lower end, which ring passes over the looped rear end of the noseband.

A bridoon crown piece, a plain strap of collar leather, 7 to 8 ounces, 25 1/8 inches long and inch wide, with five holes at each end. This strap passes up through the rear loops in the brow band and lays directly under the throat latch, to which it is stitched for a distance of 1 inch on the top to secure it in position.

Two bridoon straps, of 6 to 7 ounce collar leather inch wide and 13 5/8 inches long. A buckle in the upper end of each strap secures it to the bridoon crown piece on either side. The lower end of each strap passes through the ring of the bridoon bit and back through two standing loops (sewed to the strap above the bit) and over a stud hook on the side next to the animal.

Two bit straps, each a plain strap of 7 to 8 ounce collar leather inch wide, 10 3/8 inches long, with a hole in the center and one 9/16 inch from each end. This strap carries at its center the bit strap retainer (a double loop with a stud hook in the center bar). The two ends of the strap double back and fasten over the stud hook, so that the strap when assembled forms two loops, the upper one carrying a 1-inch snap hook and the lower loop passing through the upper loop in the curb bit.

The snap hook engages in the lower loop of the cheek slide. These slides, one on either side of the bridle, are adjustable on the cheek piece by 6 holes in the cheek piece.

The halter tie rope is a plain manila rope 1/2 inch in diameter and 100 inches long; at one end an eye splice is formed by means of which a bronze swivel bolt snap is attached, which snaps into the 2 3/16-inch small iron ring on the rear of the nose band.

The bridoon reins are of 7 to 8 ounce collar leather inch wide and cut 57 3/4 inches long. Three and one-fourth inches from the bit ends of the reins a 4 1/2-inch lap is stitched onto the inside (flesh side) of the reins. Approximately midway on this reinforcing piece is a stud hook pointing to the rear, and on each side of the hook is a standing loop. Two and one-fourth inches from the extreme bit end of the reins a hole with slit is punched, so that to assemble the rein to the bit ring the end is passed through the ring under the first standing loop, the stud hook passed through the hole in the rein, and the end carried on under the rear standing loop; the reinforcing piece above described is sufficiently long to give two thicknesses of leather where it loops through the bit ring.

The rear ends of the bridoon reins are connected by a 5/8-inch buckle.

The curb reins are of 7 to 8 ounce collar leather inch wide and cut 55 1/4 inches long. The method of attachment at the bit ring is the same as for the bridoon reins. The reins are stitched together at the bight with a 1 1/2-inch lap, with rounded ends skived down. The reins assembled carry a sliding loop inch wide just in front of the bight.

The bridoon is the model of 1909 bit, which has been revised to use a 2 1/4-inch ring in place of a 2-inch, and is now made of 27 per cent nickel steel.

The curb bit is the present model of 1909 bit of 27 per cent nickel steel.

The curb chain is model of 1912 and differs from former models in that it is a single twist chain composed of 15 links of 27 per cent nickel steel 5/32-inch wire. When issued with bit the off curb hook is brazed together, thus making the chain a part of the complete bit.

The lip thong is of soft rawhide, medium weight, 18 inches wide by 14 1/4 inches long.

To fit the bridle, unsnap, unbuckle, and remove all bit straps, and first adjust the halter so that the noseband will stand at the desired height. To do this unbuckle the cheek strap, and then lengthen or shorten cheek strap and distribute the gain or loss on both sides of headstall, so that the cheek slides that support bit straps will stand at the same level. Punch new holes, if necessary, in noseband for the noseband slides. Wet the leather in the vicinity of the cheek loop thoroughly and shape snugly by pressure or blows; the cheek will then remain smoothly in position. Once the halter is adjusted to a particular horse, do not change it from that adjustment for the bits, but adjust them to proper height in mouth by means of the adjustment provided for the cheek slides. The bridoon is readily adjusted by its buckles. Always remove, bit and bridoon before taking off halter. Never try to put on halter with bits attached to it. To secure halter tie, pass end around neck loosely, lay a double turn of about 6 inches in length along standing part, loop to the front, and free end to the rear, wind the free end three or four times about both loop and standing part, thrust free end through loop and draw tight.

In case it becomes necessary to replace the snap hook, or the rope itself, proceed as follows: Pass the end of the rope through the eye of the snap, unravel about 7 inches of the end, place the eye of the snap close to the unraveled strands, open a strand on the standing portion of rope near to eye, pass middle strand, No. 2, of unraveled portion through opening on standing part and draw tight. (Fig. 1, P1. I.) Next untwist the strand at the left of the middle one, pass No. 1 strand through the opening and draw snug.  Now turn the rope over, untwist the remaining strands, pass No. 3 strand through opening, and draw snug. (Fig. 2.) Now draw the strands more snugly against the standing part of the rope and, commencing with either one of the three strands, pass each one in turn, as before, from right to left. between its mates, following the twist of the rope, until the operation has been performed three times. (Fig. 3.) Now place the rope on the floor and roll it under foot until the splice is smooth, then neatly trim away useless ends.

To still further finish this splice, wrap it throughout its length toward the snap with shoe thread, well waxed, then return to starting point by passing needle and thread between strands at each one-half inch, and finally secure all ends snugly. If preferred, this eye splice may be made up without passing it through the eye of the snap bolt. After completion, pass the free end of the tie rope through the snap hook eye and then through the eye splice and draw up snugly. The tie rope shown in the cut of the bridle is assembled in this way:

To finish free end of rope tie, use the Daly wrap as follows: Untwist the strands for about 7 inches, then take a single cord of each strand and untwist to the same point. (Fig. 4.) Now take No. 1 cord from the left, and lay it across the nearer side of the rope just below the junction of the untwisted portions and lay No. 2 cord over No. 1 cord. (Fig. 5.) Now carry No. 9 cord well to the farther side of the rope out of the way.

Bring No. cord over No. 2 cord, pass No. 3 cord under No. 1 cord. between it and the rope near the point where it leaves the rope, and draw all three cords snugly. (Fig. 6.) This operation leaves the strands standing upward and the cords downward, the strands thus being secured in the center. Now pass each cord from right to left between the twisted strands of the rope itself until each has been so passed through for three times, precisely as was done with the unraveled strands in making the snap splice above. Finish in a manner similar to that there described. and cut off the unraveled strands about inch above grasp of cord. (Fig. 7.)

This wrapping may be still further finished by waxed thread as described under the snap splice.

To tie the horse to a hitching post or rail, never tie by the reins, but slip the loop of the rope tie over the horse’s head, pass the doubled end of loop through the ring or once or more times around the rail; unsnap the hook and pass it through the free end of the loop, pulling tant then snap hook to halter ring: adjust the reins so that they will not catch on the post or be trampled under foot. To untie, reverse the process.

(Plate II.)

Two wooden side bars, one right and one left, shaped on the under side to fit the horse’s back. These are of basswood, natural finish and varnished.

One cantle roll support, a casting of aluminum riveted to the cantle of frame and extending out to the rear having down through it a slot for roll strap.

A ground seat of sole leather formed in a press to fit the metal frame accurately and riveted to same.

Two pieces of straining webbing, passing under the sole leather ground seat from cantle to pommel, securely riveted to the steel frame and stretched so as to support the leather seat.

A seat, of 6 to 7 ounces collar leather, embossed to imitate pigskin, pressed in a die to the exact shape of the ground seat. This seat passes up over the aluminum cantle roll support and around the cantle is stitched to a facing leather underneath the steel frame and forward from the cantle is stitched to the jockeys by a welted seam, the jockeys being of similar material to the seat. The seat is also stitched to the under facing of the pommel.

Two skirts, one right, one left, cut to shape, as shown in Plate II, and embossed to imitate pigskin, made of medium harness leather riveted to the steel saddle frame. The skirt has a loop riveted to it near its upper forward corner, through which passes a strap of the pommel pocket, thus holding the latter down in its proper position.

The side bar pads are of olive-drab felt, about 1/2-inch thick. These pads are cut to the shape of the under sides of the side bars. A piece of light collar leather is stitched to the forward and rear ends of the pads forming pockets, these pockets fitting over the side bars and holding the pads snugly to the side bars. Small straps are provided to facilitate removal of the pads from the bars when necessary.

Stirrup straps.-These are of light harness leather, 1 3/8 inches wide and 56 1/2 inches long over all when complete. At one end is a 1 3/8-inch bronze center-bar buckle sewed to the strap by a 2-inch pointed lap, flesh side out. The free end is pointed and punched with 12 oblong holes 1 1/4 inches apart, each hole being numbered.

The stirrups are issued in two sizes, varying in width 1/4 inch.

Girth-strap adjusters (Plate XIII) .-These pieces are designed to vary the location of the girth relative to the saddle. The adjuster consists of a piece of 7 to 8 ounce collar leather a little wider than the girth and about 12 inches long. This is reinforced for the upper 6 inches with a back of similar leather stitched to the front around the edges. There are four loops formed in the adjuster by slots cut in the outer piece; between each pair of loops is riveted a h-inch bronze stud. Each girth strap passes through a pair of these loops, and the stud enters one of the holes in the girth strap.

The girth should ordinarily be about 4 inches in rear of the point of the elbow, varying somewhat with the conformation of the horse. It is readily adjusted in this respect by the girth-strap adjusters (Plate XIII). To move the girth relatively forward, shorten the front girth straps, or lengthen the rear girth straps, or both. To move the girth relatively to the rear, reverse this method. By this means the saddle may be held in different positions if found desirable. Habitually the studs should be in the corresponding holes in both front and rear straps. A variation of one hole is usually sufficient to set the saddle forward or back to conform to the needs of an ill-shaped horse or a sore back. Three lengths of girth are isued, to wit, 28, 32, and 36 inches. Considerable latitude is also allowed on the girth straps for lengthening and shortening. It is desirable, however, that the proper length of girth be obtained, rather than to try and fit all horses with a single length. Habitually the buckles of the girth on either side should rest upon the corresponding girth-strap adjuster. This is designed to act as a safe to these buckles and prevent their injuring the horse. A sufficient number of holes is provided in the girth straps to permit of the lowering the adjusters to serve this purpose.

When not needed, the coat straps should be disposed of as follows:

The double buckle straps may be either removed and placed within the pommel pockets or, if the latter are worn on the saddle, the free ends of the double buckle straps may be passed through their usual staples above the pommel pockets, from rear to front, flesh side up, thence forward, down in front of pommel-pocket gusset, under pommel-pocket attaching strap, and back to buckles, drawn up snugly, and buckled to both buckles; the remaining single buckle coat straps may be either rolled or twisted as heretofore on the McClellan saddle.

The stirrups are attached by loops that permit their ready removal from the saddle. This is done rather for reasons of convenience than of safety. If the latch fails to open readily with the fingers, put a thong through its eye and pull on the thong. The stirrups are issued dark colored and are not to be brightened by polishing. If rust gathers upon them, remove it by an oiled rag. The stirrup straps are purposely placed with flesh side out-this prolongs their life. They are worn with the buckles drawn up against the safety loops on saddle, buckles on outside.

When unsaddling in the field, fold the skirts and carrier straps with their attachments under the saddle before placing it on the ground.

In garrison the saddle should be hung on a bracket sufficiently wide so that the saddle rests on its side bars. If a narrower support is used, the saddle will rest on the low point in its leather seat and soon become badly misshapen.

Saddle Blanket.

To fold the saddle blanket, proceed as follows:

The blanket, after being well shaken, will be folded into six thicknesses, as follows: Hold it well up by the two corners, the long way up and down; double it lengthwise (so the fold will come between the "U" and "S"), the folded corner (middle of blanket.) in the left hand; take the folded corner between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, thumb pointing to the left; slip the left hand down the folded edge two-thirds its length and seize it with the thumb and second finger; raise the hands to the height of the shoulders, the blanket between them extended; bring the hands together, the double fold falling outward; pass the folded corner from the right hand into the left hand, between the thumb and forefinger; slip the second finger of the right hand between the folds, and seize the double-folded corner; turn the left (disengaged) corner in, and seize it with thumb and forefinger of the right hand, the second finger of the right hand stretching and evening the folds; after evening the folds grasp the corners and shake the blanket well in order to smooth the folds; raise the blanket and place it between the chin and breast; slip the hands down halfway, the first two fingers outside, the other fingers and thumb of each hand inside; seize the blanket with the thumbs and first two fingers; let the part under the chin fall forward; hold the blanket lip, arms extended; even the lower edges; seize the middle pomts between the thumbs and forefingers; and flirt the outside part over the right arm; the blanket is thus held before placing it on the horse.

The Cooling Strap.

This strap is made of olive-drab webbing, is 87 1/2 inches long and is fastened with a tongueless bar buckle. The horse’s back should not, when heated, be immediately exposed, after unsaddling, to the hot sun or to the cool air. The saddle blanket should be left upon it for a reasonable period. To keep the blanket properly in place, the cooling strap has been provided. When not in use, fold the strap carefully and replace it in the compartment therefor in the rear of the off pommel pocket.

The Rifle Carrier Boot.

(Plate III.)

This piece of equipment has two essential parts- (1) a leather bucket in which the butt of the rifle fits quite snugly, and (2) a standing part, which supports the bucket and serves to attach the whole boot to the saddle,

As will be seen from the cuts, the bucket is a flask-shaped cup about 9 inches high. The body is of 7 to 8 ounce collar leather and has a sole-leather lining. Between the lining and outside there are two flat steel springs so shaped and located as to cause the flat sides of the boot to press moderately against the sides of the rifle butt, thus steadying it and preventing excessive movement. The bottom of the bucket is of sole leather, oval shaped, and pressed into the form of a shallow cup, the sides of which are riveted to the bucket sides by 24 brass belt rivets with burs. There is a bottom lining of gray felt 1/2  inch thick to deaden the pounding of the rifle butt.

The standing part of the boot consists of a stiff body about 17 1/2 inches long and varying in width from 4 to 6 inches, made up of two thicknesses of bridle leather 9 1/2 to 10 1/2 ounces, stitched together all around the edges and having between them a thin sheet steel spring of approximately the same shape for stiffness. In addition to this spring there is a thin cast aluminum alloy reinforce piece for added strength at the bottom where the bucket is attached. The attaching strap, a plain strap of heavy harness leather, is riveted onto the top of the standing part, then passes upward through a loop near the near cantle hinge of the saddle, back down to a stud in the back of the standing part where adjustment is obtained, thence on downward to the carrier strap which passes under the horse.

The bucket is attached to the standing part by means of a swivel on the lower end of the standing part which engages with a staple riveted into the bottom of the bucket. The whole weight of the rifle and bucket rests on this swivel. The bucket is maintained in an upright position by a retaining strap which is riveted into the wall of the bucket but is held to the standing part by friction only, so that if the bucket is violently forced away from the standing part, as in case of a man falling from his horse on the near side, the retaining strap will slip out of the standing part and allow the bucket to swing freely from the swivel.

In order to obtain sufficient friction on the retaining strap it passes up between the front and back leathers of the standing part for a distance, then doubles back on itself under a metal spring loop which holds the strap firmly enough to maintain the bucket upright unless an abnormal force is used to free it.

This article of equipment supports the rifle while it is on the saddled horse. Before "Standing to horse" the trooper attaches his rifle to his belt by passing the muzzle up through the belt ring and engaging the snap hook of the belt ring strap into the trigger guard. To insure that the trigger guard screws may not work out due to this method of slinging the rifle to the belt, tighten the trigger guard screws periodically.

At "Stand to horse," the rifle being slung to the belt, the trooper then has both hands free to use for any purpose. Being at " Stand to horse," upon any preparatory command, except for mounting or linking horses, at once unsling rifle from belt ring and take position of "Order arms," removing bridoon reins from horse’s neck and passing right arm through them, if necessary. If the command is for linking horses, link first, and then unsling rifle. To mount, proceed as though without rifle. When seated in saddle. with left hand grasp rifle at bolt, barrel to the front, slip butt of the rifle into the bucket, steadying the latter with left foot if desired, and take the position of the trooper mounted. To dismount, at preparatory command, seize the rifle with left hand at the bolt, give it a quick, forcible pull, lifting butt from the bucket, and let rifle hang from the belt. After this preparation dismount as though without rifle, except that as the right foot passes over the croup, bring it beside the left foot, still in the stirrup, and make a slight pause. This permits rifle to come to rest in a vertical position and prevents its unnecessary swinging as trooper descends to the ground.

The rifle carrier is fastened to the saddle horse by passing the end of the attaching strap downward through the loop on near cantle hinge, and securing by its proper stud and loop on back side of standing portion of the boot. The free end of this strap below the stud forms a depending billet which attaches to the near buckle of the carrier strap. The boot is adjusted to the particular trooper by placing him on the saddle horse, his rifle in the bucket, and raising or lowering the boot to suit his convenience. The retaining strap is purely a safety device. In case the trooper should be thrown toward the near side, the retaining strap will be forcibly pulled from its loop, the bucket will fall and release the rifle butt. The trooper will thus be disengaged from his horse. When thrown in any other direction, this act will of itself withdraw the rifle from the bucket. Once the retaining strap is withdrawn from its loop, from any cause the trooper before mounting should replace it. This is easily done. Pass the free end up through leather facing of standing part, if necessary, then through metal loop, and draw bucket into vertical position against standing part of boot. Turn free end of retaining strap on itself, and pass back through metal loop, above previous part, then downward through leather loop on outside face of standing part, and draw it sufficiently snug to bring fold to within about 1/2   inch of metal loop.

It is impracticable with this carrying device to "advance rifle."