15. METAL.-The use of a rotary barrel as a burnishing
machine is not recommended for any metal except detachable chains, due to the excessive
wear to which such metal articles will be; subjected during the cleaning process. A
buffer, to which jeweler's rouge may be applied, mounted on the shaft of a 1/4 HP electric
motor, will give much quicker and better' results for removing rust or stains, after which
a mild metal polish, such as issue polish, will keep all articles in condition. Neither
brass nor plated articles should be burnished, but may be polished by use of a mild metal
polish, or a mild ammonia solution which will remove corrosion. Regulations prohibit the
polishing of any metal parts oxidized when issued, and the removal from saddles of metal
fittings, except for replacement. In order to put a black finish on brass metal parts
which have been previously shined, the parts may be immersed in a solution of ammonium
hydroxide, which has been saturated with copper carbonate, until proper color' appears.
This solution may also be used on brass saddle fittings by painting it over the parts with
a small brush, such as a water-color brush, taking care to get none of the solution on the
leather itself.
[See
here for more details on chemical blacking info - admin]
16. WOOD.-Articles of unpainted wood, such as guidon
staffs and modified McClellan stirrups, should be dressed down, as needed, using a fine
sand paper, revarnished to protect the surface from moisture, which will cause dryrot, and
re-waxed to protect the varnish and give a brilliant luster.
17. HORSE COVERS.-AII horse covers, lined or unlined,
should be periodically brushed free from adherent hair, manure, etc., and washed in the
following manner: Spread the blanket flat on a clean concrete or wooden surface and
thoroughly hose off both sides with a nozzled hose. Then thoroughly scrub both sides with
a stiff brush and a dissolved soap solution. Again hose both sides and spread on a picket
line or fence to dry in the sun. If, in addition, it is desired to disinfect, dip the
article in a 2% cresolis solution after hosing off, and allow to dry thoroughly in the
sun.
18. SADDLE PADS.-Felt pads made of layer felt can be
cleaned only by the use of a wire brush, for they will disintegrate if allowed to soak in
water. They may be disinfected by carefully sponging off with a 2% cresolis solution.
19. SADDLE BLANKETS.-All saddle blankets should be
kept brushed free of adherent hair, dried sweat, etc. If also desired to wash, the
following method has proved satisfactory: After being brushed free of foreign material,
hang on a fence or picket line and thoroughly hose off with water, then repeatedly souse,
without scrubbing, in a lukewarm suds solution. Rinse in clear water, or again hose off,
and allow to dry by hanging on a fence or picket line, without wringing out. They may also
be disinfected in a 2% cresolis solution.
20. CINCHES OR GIRTHS.-All girths are made of
textiles (web, linen, etc.) mohair, or leather, which may be cleaned in exactly the same
way that it has been indicated to clean other articles made of the same materials.
However, it must be remembered that cinches and girths, due to the fact that they will
more often be saturated with sweat, should be thoroughly cleaned, and leather parts
re-oiled, more often than will be necessary for other items of equipment.
21. USE OF AMMONIA. Due to the fact that ammonia is a
soap builder, as well as a solvent for fatty acids and most organic matter, the addition
of a small amount to the soap solutions used in cleaning and scrubbing all mohair and
textile materials will, especially in stubborn cases, reinforce the soap action, assist in
removing stains, and generally free the article from animal odors.
