Section II
Cleaning Methods
10. GENERAL.-In order properly to clean and preserve any leather equipment, proper facilities must exist. Mention has already been made of the fact that a sufficient time allowance must be made; in addition, and most importantly, a place must be made available, equipped with proper cleaning racks, tables, and all other necessary equipment; and finally, this place for cleaning equipment should not be the place where the equipment is kept. In other words, the cleaning room should be separate and distinct, though adjacent to the tack room In organization stables where such facilities do not exist, experience has proved the advisability and made worth while the devotion of thought and effort to establishing such cleaning rooms. These rooms not only result in a great saving of time and energy on the part of the men, but in much superior equipment, for it is a well-recognized fact that equipment once in perfect shape is easily kept in perfect shape.
11. NEW EQUIPMENT.-When withdrawn from storage and issued to troops, all new government issue leather equipment is in more or less of a dehydrated state of preservation, maintained by an agent (dubbin), that not only by closing the pores of the leather, excludes most atmospheric moisture, but retains almost indefinitely the natural preserving oils tanned into the leather at the time of manufacture. As long as items of issue that have been "dubbed" remain in storage and are not put into daily use, this coat of dubbin should not be removed, due to the fact that it is an almost perfect leather preservative. However, before the item can be put into comfortable use, it will usually be found necessary to "break it in" by removing this protective coat of dubbin and by restoring the natural life and flexibility of the leather by additional oiling, cleaning and reoiling, if necessary, during a short period of normal use. The fact that a short period of normal use is absolutely necessary in order to break in new equipment cannot be too strongly emphasized, for any known method of shortening the "breaking-in process" is likely to result in getting too much oil into the leather, the deleterious effects of which have already been discussed.
In order to put such new government issue items of equipment into use, the following process is recommended:
a. Make a saturated castile soap solution by dissolving in hot water as much shaved castile soap as possible. Add eight to twelve tablespoonfuls, depending upon how hard the water may be in the locality, of strong ammonia water (26° U.S.P. or 28% ) to about one G.I. mess cupful of the saturated castile soap solution. Then add sufficient water to make one gallon of the castile soap and ammonia solution.
b. Thoroughly scrub the article with the castile soap and ammonia solution. A nail brush, or a brush no stiffer than a nail brush, is best to use for this purpose. A stiff brush, such as a G.I. scrubbing brush, is considered too stiff as it is likely to mar the surface of the hair, or grain, side of the leather. The ammonia and soap solution should produce a heavy lather. ]f it does not, more ammonia or more soap solution, or both in small amounts, should be added until a heavy lather is produced. If mixed and used properly, the ammonia and soap solution will dissolve and clean the surface of the leather of dried waxes and oils; it will also assist in loosening verdigris (a copper salt) and metal stains.
c. Rinse off thoroughly with clear water, wipe as dry as possible with a clean cloth, and allow to dry.
d. When almost but not quite dry, apply either dubbin or oil in the manner previously described, (par. b) and allow to dry thoroughly. This drying and absorbing process may require 24 or more hours in a heated room, during which any excess or exuding oils should be wiped from the surface.
e. When thoroughly dry, again clean the exposed surface of the leather of excess surface oils with a very light soap lather. The saddle is now ready either for normal use or to be dressed, if dressing is desired.
f. When thoroughly dry from the previous step, apply leather dressing, if desired, according to directions. If the first application of dressing does not give the luster desired, allow it to set and the oils to penetrate for a few hours; the surface of the leather may then be gone over with a slightly damp cloth and re-dressed. -
g. If a particularly high standard of appearance and luster is desired, it may be obtained by waxing, as previously described, after the second application of dressing.
12. USED OR REPAIRED EQUIPMENT.-In order to put used or repaired equipment that has been in storage into use, or to periodically refinish equipment that has been in use, the following process is recommended:
a. Thoroughly clean with the ammonia and soap solution, as described in paragraph 11.
b. Dissolve four to eight tablespoonfuls crystallized oxalic acid, depending upon the condition of the article and whether or not it has been previously dyed, in one pint of wood (methyl) alcohol, and add sufficient water to make one gallon of the solution. Using this solution on a clean sponge, rag, or soft brush, thoroughly go over both hair (or grain, as it is sometimes called) and flesh sides of the leather, particularly where discolorations are evident. Continue the process until all remaining oils, greases, as much dye-stuff as possible, and organic matter are dissolved and washed out, and the surfaces clean.
c. Not later than fifteen minutes after the preceding step, thoroughly reclean with the ammonia and soap solution. (This not only neutralizes the oxalic acid, but assists in washing out of the leather those undesirable substances loosened by the oxalic acid-alcohol solution.) Rinse thoroughly with clear water, and wipe as dry as possible.
d. If the surface of the leather appears to darken after the preceding step, due to the presence in the leather of basic dye-stuffs, sponge the leather off with a mild acetic acid solution; made by mixing one tablespoonful of acetic acid, or one pint ordinary household vinegar, with sufficient water to make one gallon of the solution.
e. Allow the equipment to dry out in a heated room. This drying process may take twenty-four or more hours in a room kept at about 70 F.
f. If, at this time, the leather is not bleached sufficiently to insure a good, natural color, steps b, c, d and e may be repeated before the equipment is oiled, but never should the oxalic acid be used either in stronger solution, nor more than three times on any given set of equipment. If the equipment is so badly stained or dyed, or the dye burnt into the surface or fibers of the leather, that three oxalic acid solution applications do not bleach sufficiently, the chances are that the dye pigments are so thoroughly imbedded in the gelatinous tissues of the leather that to remove them would ruin the leather.
When sufficiently bleached and almost but not quite dry, oil as previously indicated, allowing the oil to penetrate and the equipment to dry out in a heated room for twenty-four or more hours.
g. If, after oiling, there are any surfaces of the grain side that are rough and have been worn through to the inner fibers, these surfaces may be refinished and made smooth by the following process, after the surface oil has been removed by cleaning with a very light soap lather:
(1) Mix thoroughly three heaping tablespoonfuls of powdered gum tragacanth and one heaping teaspoonful of pulverized oxalic acid crystals. Stir this mixture into one quart of water and let it set (about twelve hours) until about the consistency of soft jelly or gelatin.
Apply this compound with a small sponge, rubbing it well into the surface, always in the same direction, and finish by allowing it to dry slightly and then rubbing hard with a dry cotton cloth. This will lay and fix all of the exposed rough fibers and leave a smooth surface, which will be an excellent base for a later dressing.
(2) The same results can be accomplished by the use of any other commercial leather cleaner, the principal base of which is powdered gum tragacanth, mixed with a small amount of oxalic acid in the same proportions as described above, and applied in the same manner.
h. Stain if desired, and dress as previously indicated.
i. Apply wax, if desired.
To summarize the effects of the various chemicals in this process, the ammonia and soap solution neutralizes and washes away fatty acids, dirt and grit, and organic matter; the ammonia, as well as being a neutralizing solvent, acts as a soap "builder". The oxalic acid-alcohol-water solution kills molds and mildew, runs dyestuffs, and bleaches. A re-use of the ammonia and soap solution neutralizes traces of any remaining acids, preventing any harmful effects either on the leather or stitching, and washes out any residues. The mild acetic acid solution, which soon harmlessly evaporates without trace, neutralizes the alkali effect on any basic dyestuffs that might previously have been used. The oil softens and preserves. The refinishing lays and binds exposed fibers and smooths worn surfaces. The dressing preserves and finishes The wax preserves by protecting the finish and gives a high luster.
13. EQUIPMENT IN SERVICE.-Once equipment is in proper shape, it may be easily kept in shape by a daily cleaning immediately after use with a good soap, which should be used generally with a minimum amount of water; by periodic dressing or polishing, as desired or required; and by a periodic thorough cleaning, refinishing and oiling, as previously described. Depending upon conditions and use, it should not be necessary to completely refinish and reoil more than once or twice a year.
14. STORAGE OF LEATHER EQUIPMENT.-Before putting used leather equipment into storage, it should be thoroughly inspected, repaired, if necessary, then cleaned and oiled as follows:
a. Articles of Black Leather. Remove all hardened grease with a thin piece of wood (do not use a knife or a piece of glass) and dampen a sponge in clear, lukewarm water (hot water must never be used nor the leather allowed to soak in any water), and pass the sponge over the article until all dirt and sweat have become soft (rinse the sponge often, and frequently replace dirty water with clear). Clean thoroughly by obtaining a good lather with harness soap and giving the article a heavy coating, continually rubbing the lather into the article until all dirt and sweat are removed. Rinse thoroughly with clear water and a clean sponge, wiping away all excess moisture. When leather is nearly but not entirely dry, apply warm dubbin, made by one of the processes previously described. If ammonia is available, the ammonia-soap-water solution may be used instead of harness soap for cleaning.
b. Articles of Russet Leather.-Proceed exactly as outlined for black leather, except use saddle soap instead of harness soap, or use the ammonia-soap-water solution, if available.
Inasmuch as it is not possible, during the tanning process, to stuff russet leather with oils to the extent possible with black leather, it might be further stated here that russet leather equipment will need more frequent oiling and better general care than black leather. (From this fact might be deduced a conclusion that black leather, if color were not a consideration, would be a more practical leather for service requirements. It would, all other things being equal, be always of a uniform color, and much easier to properly maintain under all conditions, garrison or field.)
C. Metal Parts.-Wash with warm water to remove saliva, sweat, mud, etc.; polish any rusty article; wipe thoroughly with a cloth slightly moistened with oil, so as to leave the surface of the article covered with a thin oil film.